Renault Megane Clutch Replacement

Replacement clutch for a Renault Megane? Here in this article, you can learn how to complete Renault Megane Clutch replacement very fast and easily by yourself! The Renault Megane 2 gearbox removal procedure is only vaguely in the description. However, if you have this car’s repair manual, which includes the key details of the transmission removal, you may quickly grasp what to do.

Renault Megane Clutch Replacement

Regardless of your driving style, Renault Megane 2 clutch replacement becomes necessary after 100,000 operating miles. Replacement of the clutch basket, disk, and hydraulic throw-out bearing are all included in this procedure. We’ll need several additional parts in addition to the inspection pit, the jack, and the set of keys. You may opt to support the following articles:

Renault 77 01 475 246 Original Clutch Kit (Disk and Basket). comparables: Luk 622 3110 09, SACHS 3000 951 333, and Valeo 826 479.

Renault 30 62 028 64R, original throw-out bearing. Luk 510 0088 10, Valeo 804 526, and Patron PHCB17 are comparables. Disconnect the switching strings and remove the pad on which they are in support. Then remove the accumulator battery, the battery pad, the ECU unit, and the connector with the crankshaft position sensor.

It would be preferable to secure and move away from the transmission any cables and junction pipes that are in the way. We should also hang the radiator. You are also welcome to use the Audi radio calculator for free to get your lost code – if you have this problem!

Radiator Crossbar Removal

• Remove the semi-axles. The suspension must be partially disassembled to accomplish that. The shock absorber strut was easier to remove from the steering knuckle than the trunnion ball, which is harder to achieve without breaking the boot, so I went with that option.
• Unscrew the stabilizer links, the steering links from the knuckle, and the steering rail from the subframe before tying it to the exhaust pipe.
• The stabilizer link must be removed from the steering knuckle by compressing the stabilizer link spring, releasing the subframe’s last few bolts (the subframe prevents the transmission from being removed), and unscrewing the subframe (it is very easy to do with the subframe unscrewed). I used a wire to secure the knuckle to the link brackets so that I wouldn’t “abuse” the trunnion ball.

Underneath the engine, place a support block!

Remove the left semi-axle. Use a hammer to gently tap a crowbar by inserting the bent end between the transmission and the tripod. Take out the proper semi-axle. Additionally, remove the transmission’s screw and move it at a distance of 10 to 15 millimeters. Otherwise, you won’t be able to remove the right semi-axle easily due to the hanger bearing fastening. NO BATTERY IS NEEDED! Take remove the transmission by removing the transmission support.